The journey was segmented by a three-hour layover in Dubai, starting with a 2 pm departure from London Gatwick on a Wednesday and culminating in my arrival in Tokyo at 6 pm local time on Thursday. Accounting for time zones, the transit spanned twenty hours under the aegis of Emirates, seventeen of which were spent mid-air with the constant hum of engines as the aircraft cut a steady path through high-altitude winds. The round-trip cost was 537 GBP—a reasonable fee, considering that the twelve nights in Tokyo it enabled would alter the course of my life. Such were the conditions of my inaugural flight to Japan, which may sound familiar to anyone who has embarked on or is planning to undertake a budget-conscious voyage to the country from regions outside Asia.
The Emirates route to Tokyo from London via Dubai is both mentally and physically taxing. The first leg lasts just over seven hours, and the onward journey is nearly ten hours, requiring passengers to endure two consecutive long-haul flights. This route, embarked upon 14 years ago, remains almost identical today, albeit at roughly twice the price. Despite Emirates' reputation as an airline with high standards, I find it difficult to recommend, given the present cost. China Eastern or Air China offers the most economical fares from London to Tokyo today, at approximately 500 GBP. These carriers often appear in cost-effective routes from various global cities, with the flight's tedium somewhat alleviated by transiting through Shanghai, which facilitates a shorter, medium-haul segment before reaching Tokyo.
Finnair offers an appealing alternative from European cities for a marginally higher but still palatable fee. I took this flight twice last year, and the interchange at Helsinki-Vantaa Airport was as pleasant as early morning layovers come—it is an airport with a calm atmosphere, complete with loungers for slumbering, relaxing ambient bird sounds playing from hidden speakers and a café dedicated to the Moomins, Finland's beloved cultural export. Whether flying Finnair, Emirates, or Air China, there is a fair chance you will land at Narita International Airport. I completed numerous trips to Tokyo before landing at the city's other international gateway, Haneda. Within the parameters of my search at the time, all flight paths seemed to lead to Narita, which I took to be the more prominent and established hub. It is true that Narita connects with 99 international cities, surpassing Haneda's 60.
Comparing the sizes of the two airports presents complexities, though. Narita claims the title of the country's largest airport by international passenger volume, flight numbers, destinations, and airline totals. However, Haneda Airport spans a greater physical area, encompassing 1,516 hectares versus Narita's 1,137. My initial beliefs were further corrected upon learning the historical timelines of these ports: Narita is approaching its mid-forties, whereas Haneda will celebrate its 93rd anniversary next month.
Haneda Airport was established as Tokyo Airfield in 1931 at the behest of Nagaoka Gaishi, a decorated military officer with a commanding moustache who also served as vice-president of the Imperial Flying Association. Nagaoka made enduring efforts to promote air travel in Japan, which reached their apex in the instigation of Haneda Airport. Spurred by burgeoning interest in commercial aviation and the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923, which damaged the railway networks heavily, the need for a full-scale airport in Tokyo became apparent. Until then, the city had only minor airfields on its outskirts. The Haneda area emerged as an attractive option for the new airport: it had hosted an aerodrome since Japan's first flying school was founded there in 1917. Furthermore, its advantageous location within Tokyo and feasible land reclamation opportunities from Tokyo Bay enabled Nagaoka to advocate for creating the nation's first airport in this locale.
During the 1930s, Haneda facilitated flights throughout the Japanese mainland, extending to Taiwan, Korea, and Manchuria. In the wartime years followed by the Allied occupation, the airport primarily served military transport needs. The Allied Forces eventually returned most of the facility, renaming it Tokyo International Airport in 1952. The inaugural passenger terminal opened in 1955, and by the decade's close, airlines such as Air France, British Airways, Swiss Airways, Pan Am, and a nascent Japan Airlines were operating international routes from Haneda. Thus began Japan's era of civil aviation.
Haneda has gracefully inscribed its narrative on Japanese aeronautical history—a story arc encompassing quaint beginnings, the hardships of war, and an ultimately glorious ascent as the country's preferred airport. In contrast, Narita has a tumultuous history. During the 1960s, the surge in Japan's economy and the introduction of large jet aircraft demanded expanded airport capacity, prompting a new international airport proposal. Deliberation between bureaucrats and local politicians resulted in the initial site selection of Tomisato and Yachimata, situated within Chiba prefecture, which adjoins Tokyo to the east and forms part of the Greater Tokyo area. However, these proposals encountered vehement opposition from local groups led by the Japanese Communist Party and the Japan Socialist Party, resulting in the selection of the Sanrizuka area north of Tomisato. Sanrizuka was chosen primarily for its prefectural-owned land, which was expected to simplify the land acquisition process.
The decision to advance the airport's construction was made swiftly and without full local approval, sparking intense resistance. This opposition, characterised by violence and an escalation in radical protest, led to considerable setbacks in the airport's construction and eventual inauguration. The Tōhō Crossroads Incident was a notably severe occasion, where violent clashes between protesters and police culminated tragically in the deaths of several police officers.
Although the government ultimately quelled the opposition through legal intervention and compensation negotiations, it profoundly influenced Japan's subsequent airport construction strategies. Airport planners now prefer sea reclamation to rural development, aiming to reduce social disruption—a tactic exemplified by the construction of Kansai International Airport in 1994. The contentious development of Narita served as a warning, prompting reflection in airport planning and construction both within Japan and globally. Narita's story stresses the necessity of careful site selection and adequately convincing potential opposition before initiating construction to prevent similar conflicts.
The airport eventually opened on 20 May 1978, initially named New Tokyo International Airport, and was later renamed Narita International Airport. This choice deliberately avoided the Sanrizuka moniker to dissociate from the negative connotations stemming from the construction period. Since its inauguration, Narita's expansion has been curtailed, a matter further complicated by Haneda's expansion, re-internationalisation, and shift to 24-hour operations. Narita, in contrast, faces restrictions on take-offs and landings from midnight to 6 am due to noise considerations. I've encountered suggestions that the government has designated Narita for international and budget domestic flights, reserving Haneda for premium domestic business travel. However, my experience shows that Haneda also accommodates many budget domestic flights.
Nevertheless, Narita stands out as a spotlessly clean, user-friendly, and functional airport. The arrivals gate is well-equipped with everything one might require upon entering Japan: a variety of konbini, vending machines, SIM cards, WiFi, and numerous travel connections to central Tokyo. Narita was my first port of entry into Japan, and I recall it fondly. As detailed in Tokyotheque #1, I chose the Narita Express, operated by Japan Rail, for my onward journey to Shinjuku station. This service presently costs ¥3,250 per ticket, pricier than the ¥2,310 for the alternative train, the Keisei Skyliner. Still, it justifies the extra cost with the convenience of an 80-minute journey through Chiba Prefecture's pastoral landscape directly into Tokyo's neon core.
I later discovered the Skyliner, viewed as Narita's principal rail link, which also features in the airport's troubled history. In 1978, an arson attack destroyed four of its railway cars. Such incidents are unlikely today, and the Skyliner offers a swift, efficient service that both locals and travellers utilise. Its final stop is Ueno Station, conveniently located for those staying in the Taitō ward. However, onward travel might require a potentially costly taxi ride or transferring your luggage to the Yamanote Line. If your journey includes transferring to the Yamanote line at Ueno Station during rush hour, complete with luggage, you are indeed set for a vivid cultural immersion.
Without spending over ¥30,000 on a taxi, the Airport Limousine bus remains the other viable option. Given the distance from Chiba to the city, it is no cheaper than the train, costing ¥3,600 to Shinjuku. However, it is a lengthier journey, taking around 1 hour and 45 minutes. Nevertheless, the limousine offers distinct advantages—particularly with regards to luggage handling. Upon lining up at the bus stand, attendants promptly take charge of your suitcases, tagging and stowing them in the luggage hold. It allows you to settle in comfortably, savour the ride, and watch the Chiba countryside gradually give way to Tokyo's dense urban landscape. Arguably, the bus provides a fuller view of this essential moment than the swiftly passing scenery from the train.
Should you land in Haneda, transit to Tokyo is less time-consuming. Barring traffic, the limousine bus journey to Shinjuku spans a mere 45 minutes at a cost of ¥1,400. Moreover, two train alternatives are available: the Keikyū Airport Line and the Tokyo Monorail, with each route priced at approximately ¥800. These trains can be accessed with a standard ticket or an IC card, offering more flexibility than the Narita Express' limited ticketing system. Depending on where you need to go next, you may yet find yourself navigating the dynamic interchanges of a Tokyo transport hub. Between the two, the Monorail provides a more enchanting ride, gracefully soaring along its elevated straddle-beam track by the waterfront.
Located in Ōta City, one of Tokyo's 23 special wards to the southeast by Tokyo Bay, Haneda is sufficiently central to justify a taxi ride. Exiting a long-haul flight, departing from the crowds, and entrusting oneself to a white-gloved Tokyo taxi driver, who seamlessly guides you to your destination using satellite navigation is my ideal introduction to the city. If time and patience permits, consider pausing briefly at the taxi rank to wait for a Toyota JPN taxi to approach the front of the queue. This newer model, which echoes the aesthetic of a London black cab with sleeker contours and a more compact frame, is adept at manoeuvring through Tokyo's tightest alleys. While these vehicles may not capture the photogenic romance of the Crown Super Deluxe—the colourful mid-size sedans familiar from online images of Japan's taxis—their ride is superior in smoothness, quietness, and spaciousness, nearly perfecting the taxi experience. When my travels take me to the city's east side, such as near Ginza or Tsukiji, I find the approximate ¥7,000 fare for this mode of transport well worthwhile.
There is more to discuss about the inner workings and lasting impact of Tokyo's airports. This is not to mention the broader experience of travelling long-haul to Japan and arriving in the metropolis. Yet, today's newsletter must be brief, as I am indeed en route to Tokyo. I wrote this week amidst the considerable preparations necessary for a trip across continents. At present, I sit in the sky in the care of Japan Airlines, destined for Haneda Airport, adding the finishing touches. Over the next three weeks I look forward to uncovering fresh aspects of the city and conveying these discoveries through Tokyothèque, a newly motivating force for my travels. Balancing detailed writing with immersive daily travel in Japan may pose a challenge—I half expect the newsletter to morph into a form resembling a travelogue, capturing thoughts directly from my experiences or perhaps featuring observations of Tokyo's current dynamics, resulting in lighter pieces. Time will tell what will be feasible.
I plan to share snippets of my journey using the posting feature on Ko-fi. This initiative will be accessible publicly without any membership fees, so I encourage you to follow me on Ko-fi for a more personal glimpse into how my time in Japan unfolds. You'll receive sound recordings, photographs, details of a café I've discovered, an area I've wandered through, or a note about the day's events. As always, my hope is that this will inspire and enhance your time in Tokyo, or if a trip to Japan is not on the horizon, virtually transport you there, bypassing the demanding long-haul flight.
Until we meet in the Haneda arrivals hall,
AJ