During a visit to Japan in the spring of 2022, I captured the above photograph and composed the accompanying caption:
A cyclist manoeuvres through a side street off Ginza Corridor, a lengthy under-track passage on the western perimeter of Ginza lined with bars, cafés, and restaurants that share an expressway for a roof. There is much to say about Ginza Corridor. Still, this side street leads away into the elongated 7-Chōme portion of Ginza, which reaches southeast toward the Sumida River, almost reaching Tsukijishijō Station, near the old site of Tsukiji Fish Market.
On the left of our cyclist, a hotel is under construction, a project featuring ten floors and three underground levels of hotel rooms and dining venues. Yellow signs caution passers-by to distance themselves from the site should an earthquake occur. Opposite, a fugu restaurant offers various preparations of the notoriously dangerous puffer fish delicacy alongside a Spanish restaurant located on the ground floor of the Kikamura Building. This zakkyo (mixed-use residence) houses various snack bars, small eateries, and specialist drinking establishments. At the street's end, the blue-panelled Gekkō (Moonlight) Building continues the trend, lighting up the alley at night in a kitsch yet faithful Ginza-esque style.
I wrote this long before publishing my writings about Tokyo in earnest, but last week, I unwittingly booked into the hotel mentioned, only realising upon arrival. The once boarded-up area on the left-hand side of the alley entering Ginza 7-Chōme has transformed into the newly opened Ginza Hotel by Granbell, further expanding Tokyo's vast hotel infrastructure. Below is the current street scene:
In anticipation of the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympics, the city saw the opening of numerous new hotels, rationalised by the expected spike in room demand and the broader trajectory of rising inbound tourism. Unfortunately, the roughly 32,000 new rooms that swelled Tokyo's hotel capacity struggled with occupancy rates below 50%. The COVID-19 pandemic had compelled Japan to seal its borders, curb domestic travel, and delay the Olympics to 2021, where they proceeded surreally under the unchanged 2020 branding. Consider the implications of spending billions of yen on event signage, visuals, marketing materials, and merchandise only to have the date rendered obsolete.
Furthermore, imagine 32,000 brand-new, vacant hotel rooms. In response, the Japanese government intervened, offering a lifeline through subsidies and loans to aid the survival of hotels, particularly benefiting smaller operators lacking the financial buffers of their larger counterparts. Despite the challenges, Tokyo's hotel industry persevered and even redoubled its efforts: older establishments were refurbished, and certain chains, such as Granbell, boldly continued to expand, exemplified by the new Ginza Granbell. Investing in such a precarious future requires mettle, yet for Granbell, it is yielding dividends, as evidenced by its notably high occupancy during my stay last week.
This hotel boasts a neatly designed layout with contemporary interior styling, elevating it above competitors such as Sotetsu Fresa Inn and Dormy Inn. Its freshness resembles the more upscale Mitsui Garden Hotels, yet it is more reasonably priced. Its address, Ginza 7-2-18, is so new that it fails to register on Tokyo taxis' satnav systems. It requires guests to initially head to 2-17 and then collaborate with their taxi driver to locate the building. Previously, I had been to a Granbell hotel in Gion, Kyoto, which is notable for its exceptionally well-appointed reception; a similar aesthetic graces the Ginza Granbell, whose reception area extends to a terrace surrounded by Ginza's towering structures. Mirroring the Kyoto establishment, the property also includes a public sento bath.
The room I occupied was a marginally larger than usual double, designed with a clear priority for floor space at the expense of amenities: it lacked a closet, and the bathroom was restrictively small, equipped solely with a shower and devoid of any counter space. Conversely, the room featured a broad desk suitable for work, expansive windows that bathed the interior in daylight, and ample space for luggage, all contributing to a less claustrophobic experience than typically found in Tokyo hotel rooms. Such compromises are inevitable when navigating a Tokyo hotel's delicate interplay of cost, quality, and space.
A 15-minute walk across Ginza from the Granbell, the Sotetsu Fresa Inn Ginza 3-Chōme offers a more spacious classic Japanese combination bathroom yet maintains a stark ambience throughout the property that fails to enhance the overall guest experience. Meanwhile, chains like Dormy Inn deliver comparable locations at the lowest prices but confine you to rooms that epitomise the extremes of compact design. I find such rooms, typically under 15 square metres, to become stifling after just a few nights. For a more harmonious blend of comfort and location, the Mitsui Garden Hotel Ginza 5-Chōme is an option, albeit at a higher cost.
Alternatively, you might bypass Ginza for quieter, less connected areas such as Hatchōbori to the east or Kyōbashi to the north. This rationale holds when staying near any significant urban centre like Shinjuku or Shibuya: stepping just beyond the borders can broaden your options, though at the cost of reduced convenience and increased travel time as you move further out. Globally, each location presents unique challenges within its hotel scene; unless your budget is generous, the paramount issue is limited space in Tokyo. Personal tolerance levels vary, but typically, my strategy is:
1–3 nights: prioritise location, accepting confined quarters.
4-7 nights: find a balance between space and location, with a slight increase in nightly rates.
8 nights or more: give preference to spacious accommodations, even if it means staying further from the centre.
Staying further from the centre offers distinct benefits, particularly for those revisiting Tokyo—each neighbourhood has its merits, potentially leading to unique experiences in places you might otherwise overlook. However, this week featured a five-night sojourn at the Ginza Hotel by Granbell, located in Ginza 7-Chōme. My days consistently started and concluded on this block. Next, I'll highlight a few additional points of interest in the vicinity.
Ginza Corridor
Ginza Corridor is the northernmost edge of the Ginza area's official confines. My 2022 photo caption described it only partially. The 'corridor' is defined by a long, raised stretch of the Tokyo Expressway's KK Route, which runs parallel to the Yamanote, Keihin Tohoku, Tokyo Ueno, and Tokaido Shinkansen train lines. Beneath the expressway and tracks, restaurants and bars have taken up occupancy. These establishments, collectively branded as Ginza Corridor, have become known as a nightlife hub. Here, dining at a sushi counter with the shinkansen thundering overhead epitomises the Tokyo experience—a double cliché perhaps, but a reality.
In Emergent Tokyo: Designing the Spontaneous City, Jorge Almazan + Studiolab highlight Ginza Corridor as a prime example of undertrack infills, an urban pattern emblematic of Tokyo's dynamic character. By facilitating the use of these spaces by businesses, they introduce social vibrancy into areas beneath what would otherwise be inhospitable infrastructure, thus creating vital urban locales. While undertrack infills in Tokyo have been a fixture for decades, traditionally hosting yokochō-like drinking nooks that evolved from post-war black markets, the modern incarnation of spaces like Ginza Corridor represents a more recent evolution, observable in various other parts of the city.
The closeness of my hotel room to Ginza Corridor presented both advantages and disadvantages, as it directly overlooked the train lines and expressway. As an urbanism enthusiast, I was thrilled by the bird's eye view of this dynamic setting; however, the relentless noise from trains and traffic was constant. For those contemplating a stay at the Granbell, be aware that all its larger "deluxe" double rooms face this way, making the pervasive urban soundscape of Ginza Corridor inescapable.
Shōwa-dōri Ginza Hodokyō
At the juncture where Hanatsubaki-dōri and Chuō Ichiba-dōri converge with the Shōwa-dōri thoroughfare, between the avenues of Ginza 7-Chōme and 8-Chōme, an impressive infrastructure piece stands prominently. Unlike the undertrack arrangement where traffic flows above and street life below, as in Ginza Corridor, pedestrians ascend over the traffic using elevators, steps, or open-air escalators. Known as the Shōwa-dōri Ginza Hodokyō, this "X" shaped footbridge theatrically spans the Ginza Higashi 7-Chōme intersection.
In Tokyo, raised footbridges spanning major roads are commonplace. For those with the time and inclination, opting to climb these bridges instead of waiting at pedestrian crossings often yields rewarding views of the city and its urban landscape. I frequently find myself drawn to these overpasses, compelled to experience the view, even at the risk of being late to my appointments.
Prompted by the 1923 Great Kantō Earthquake, the construction of Shōwa-dōri, bridged by Ginza Hodokyō, was undertaken and completed in 1928, intended as a modern backbone for the city's renewal. Envisioned by former Tokyo Mayor Shinpei Gotō, then Minister of Home Affairs and leader of the reconstruction efforts, the plan included a 108-metre-wide thoroughfare with expansive sidewalks and green belts. However, the reality was that the road was narrowed to 44 metres, devoid of green belts, and offering narrower sidewalks for pedestrians.
Shōwa-dōri had its initial pedestrian-oriented goals scaled back, yet the Ginza Hodokyō, with its varied entry points and access methods, still shows a profound commitment to facilitating pedestrian life. The bridge's promenade features a plaque with its alternative, more poetic name: Ginza Tokimeki Bridge. Below this name is an inscription detailing its background, with words from Kindaichi Haruhiko, an esteemed scholar in Japanese linguistics. He describes the word "Tokimeki" in dual senses: as an emotion that profoundly stirs the heart and as a state of moving with the times and thriving. Below is a translated excerpt from the plaque:
In 1993, during the refurbishment of roads in Ginza 7 and 8-Chōme, 'Hanatsubaki-dōri' was established. The same year, 'Tokimeite Ginza' was recorded, a hit song capturing the hearts of many. By 1997, the construction of this bridge along Shōwa-dōri in Ginza was complete. Paying tribute to its historical significance as a vibrant gathering spot that connected Shinbashi and the Hanamachi district during the Edo and Meiji periods, it was lovingly named 'Ginza Tokimeki Bridge' and marked with this monument.
This narrative lends a tender touch to what might otherwise seem a hard-edged, intensely urban structure. It is an engineering marvel with a romantic history, which I have long intended to photograph. True, a footbridge, however complex, over a main road might not typically justify a dedicated journey to an offbeat intersection. However, my temporary residence in the chōme provided a convenient opportunity to seize such a moment. I invite you to revel in the pure urban magnificence of the Shōwa-dōri Ginza Hodokyō.
My three-week spring journey to Tokyo has ended, and I find myself writing from the aircraft cabin once more, where this adventure initially started. This time, I'm in the care of British Airways, my home airline. British Airways always provides a gradual off-ramp from Japan, allowing UK visitors to recalibrate to British style before landing at Heathrow. By the time you read this newsletter, I will have already begun readjusting to the familiar rhythms of London life.
Departing from one cherished city to return to another is invariably a poignant experience. I've previously remarked on the profound sadness and nostalgia that grips global travellers returning from Japan, a sentiment vividly captured by numerous incisive and satirical TikTok memes. I anticipate a similar blend of emotions, tempered by the comfort of returning to my own bed. More importantly, I've gathered pieces of Tokyo and Japan over these three weeks through photographs, videos, and note-taking. I eagerly anticipate unpacking these treasures and presenting them to you in future newsletters.
Until we meet in Ginza 7-Chōme,
AJ